The Greater South Lake Loop Unveiled

With this new blog you can vicariously check out the Greater South Lake Coeur d'Alene area with me, your self-appointed virtual South Lake hostess. Hopefully it will inspire you to experience it in the flesh as well.

The Greater South Lake Coeur d'Alene Area is a geographical concept I came up with, so I also get to define the bounds, which are somewhat fluid. Starting from Coeur d'Alene, head south down Hwy 95 to Worley, which is pretty much the north end of the realm. Now you're on the rez, which extends to the southern Benewah County line and includes Plummer, Tensed and DeSmet along Hwy 95. Along here Tekoa, WA is included because of its social and economic ties to the south lake area and because hang gliders congregate here, sometimes "hopping" from hilltop to butte. It's also the home of the energetic little Empire Theatre and a couple of other special spots.

The southernmost part of the realm is Hwy 6 along the Palouse Divide, where it traverses east through Emida, Santa and Fernwood. Cross-country skiers can revel in a little snowbelt at the Palouse Divide Nordic Park 'N Ski area, but get a permit before you arrive by calling the rangers at either Potlatch or St. Maries for info.

The Palouse Divide Lodge has lots of rooms, but it's not a motel. It's a retreat center where crafters and others hang out by making advance reservations, so don't show up at 10 pm looking for a place to crash. If you need somewhere to sleep ask at the Drifters Bar & Grill on Hwy 6 in Emida. They have a fancy off-the-grid RV a mile up the hill. It's the only place to stay.

If you make the pilgrimage before Christmas bring your holiday cards and packages to mail from the teensie-weensie village of Santa, Idaho just down the road. From there, go north up the White Pine Scenic Byway (Hwy 3) to St. Maries, the Benewah county seat. Cross the St. Joe River on the northeast end of town, and make a right for Avery, the gateway to the St. Joe National Forest. Avery is an awesome destination with salt-of-the-earth people, but not a good spot to pontificate about your great love for the spotted owl. You can get to St. Regis, Montana from here, but it's an out-and-back trip to continue exploring the south lake loop.

Back at the White Pine Scenic Byway, travel north about 11 miles to where the south lake loop branches into a 'Y.' On the left is the Lake Coeur d'Alene Scenic Byway (Hwy 97) and it's name doesn't lie. The White Pine Scenic Byway (SR-3) continues to the right. They're both beautiful and pretty quiet in winter with Hwy 3 being the more traveled. There are a couple of gas stations and quick stops and several access points to the Trail of the Coeur d'Alenes.

On the lake road, you'll come to Harrison which is hopping all summer and dead in winter except for various holiday events. There's a bike trailhead there too, a full service grocery store where they bake fresh goodies daily, and a deli section. Harrison has lots of year round lodging alternatives which makes it a great winter spot for small retreats and a quiet getaway for artists and writers who seek a peaceful, inspirational setting.

North on this road is a bridge across the Coeur d'Alene River with the Thompson Lake Wildlife Refuge on the right. Continue on to Carlin Bay which has grub, gas, cute little log cabins for rent and a bar that often has live music on weekends, even in winter.

Next: A wintertime day trip.